- Introduction
- Why the Original Rip Fence Sucks?
- Solution
- Parts
- Downloadable Content
- Assembly Instructions
- Mounting Back Rail
- Calibrating
- Conclusion
- Gallery
Introduction
This page provides detailed plans for creating a custom rip fence to improve the Makita MLT100N table saw. The original rip fence design is inadequate, resulting in uneven cuts. The solution presented here involves creating custom parts and incorporating additional aluminum profiles to create a more stable and reliable guide. All necessary parts and instructions are included, making this a great DIY project for woodworking enthusiasts.
Why the Original Rip Fence Sucks?
Because it is fixed only in the front (cantilever analogy). The design isn’t sturdy enough to withstand forces when cutting wood - it will move and bounce, resulting in a poor, uneven cut.
Solution
The logical solution would be to add a point of fixation on the other end of the guide. But the Aluminium profile isn’t long enough, nor is there anything you could attach it to. Additionally the profile is weird in shape, lacking any useful slots or threads.
Given all that, I gave it a bit of thought and come up with a simple design that is rock solid, easy to assembly, and proven to give satisfying cuts.
Parts
The only original part you’ll keep is the blue handle. As for the rest, you’ll need eight custom parts (either 3D printed or CNC milled), four pieces of common aluminum profiles and some fittings.
Part | Standard | Quantity | Price [EUR] |
---|---|---|---|
/ | 12 | 4.68 | |
/ | 6 | 5.04 | |
/ | 1 | 0.97 | |
/ | 1 | 0.22 | |
/ | 2 | 0.68 | |
DIN 912 | 2 | 0.22 | |
DIN 912 | 4 | 0.24 | |
DIN ISO 6334 | 1 | 0.43 | |
DIN 934 | 6 | 0.3 | |
DIN 934 | 12 | 1.32 | |
DIN 9021 | 1 | 0.07 | |
DIN 125 | 8 | 0.16 | |
DIN 125 | 16 | 0.48 | |
/ | 1 | 0 | |
/ | 1 | 5.26 | |
/ | 2 | 35.53 | |
/ | 8 | 10 | |
Original Makita Part | 1 | 0 | |
Original Makita Part | 1 | 0 |
Downloadable Content
Find all the custom parts files attached here. Just download all the .stl files, and send them to your 3D printer service. Make sure to keep the infill density high. I recommend the following printing settings: layer height: 0.3 mm, extrusion width: 0.5 mm, infill density: 50%, perimeters: 5.
In case you’re doubting the rigidity of 3D printed parts, download the .step files instead and CNC mill them out of MDF (medium density fiberboard), plywood or aluminium.
Assembly Instructions
I made a thorough instructions of how to put the whole thing together. Print the pdf document and follow along.
Mounting Back Rail
Once you finish building the rip fence, you’ll need to add the 30x30 600 mm and 150 mm aluminum profiles on the back-end of the table. This will serve as a rail for adjusting the width of your cuts precisely.
You will need to drill six holes yourself. Aluminum is a soft metal, and drilling through should be easy.
Once done with drilling, attach the aluminum profiles using six hammer head srews U8/M6x20, M6 nuts and 6.4 regular washers.
Calibrating
- Place the rip fence in the rails in the front- and back-end of the table.
- Loose the two bolts connecting the handle and guide.
- Place something perfectly square of shape (a piece of straight cut wood will do) between the blade and guide.
- Lock the front handle by pushing it down.
- Once the guide is perfectly aligned fasten the knob, and the two bolts form step 1.
- Make test cuts. Readjust, if necessary.
Conclusion
This is an elegant way to improve the Makita MLT100N table saw. The improved rip fence is designed to cut wood panels straight and precisely. Aluminum has excellent tribological properties, meaning that workpieces won't get stuck during cutting. Additionally, the guide is well-proportioned and symmetrical, while the knob allows for easy adjustment of the cut's width. Depending on where you live, the total cost of the project is less than 100 EUR and takes about 30 minutes to complete.